Provincial Selections

Speed

I’d never done speed selections before. I really struggled. You get 2 timed runs and I fell off the top of my first run, I’d never fallen off there before and I was kind of shocked. No worries though, you get a second try. Nerves built up, this was it, I had to put in a proper run. How much actually rests on this? I spent some time working it up in my head and really struggled to gain composure in my mind. Time was running out. I had to go. The gym was busy and I struggled to focus. I stood on the timing pad and the countdown started, I could hardly hear it, I panicked and went. False start. That was it, I had not made a successful timed run. I have a lot of work to do. This is mentally so different from any other climbing. I will be allowed to compete at nationals.

Lead

First route went well, I felt strong, fit and in control although my movement was a bit tense. I fell on a long but easy move that I know I had the energy and strength to do, I lost focus as I hit the hold, lost tension and came off. Second route I had a similar experience coming off due to a lack of focus. None the less I had reached high points in my category on both routes. Route 3 started hard, I nearly fell off the first move. A fun sloper sequence into a crimpy sequence and then into a roof. Just as I was about to move into the roof I realised that I had missed a clip. There were two clips close together and I forgot to clip the second. This was ridiculous as it had been specifically pointed out that we needed to clip both of those draws. Again my mind let me down. After wasting energy making the clip a moved on into the roof and fell mid-way through it. Still, I got the high point, and took the win.

Boulder

Six problems to attempt in 1.5 hours, normal IFSC scoring so whoever tops the most problems wins. If there is a tie, the person who gets the most zone holds is ranked higher. If still tied it comes down to number of attempts to top, then attempts to zone. I started off with 2 flashes and then a second go. I managed another flash after that, making it 4 tops. Apart from the first one which was a slab the other problems let you just pull hard if you did not get the movement quite right. Now I had 2 more complicated problems left. One had a jump followed by a vertical balance section and mantle and then a tricky stand up. The other had a double catch dyno. I struggled on the jump until I realised I was being silly with my hand positions. I finally crossed the balance section and the mantle, but fell on the last move and did not top. I decided to try the big double catch dyno. I was determined and 17 attempts later I stuck the move and sent the problem. I was out of time (and energy) to give the remaining problem a final attempt. I won with 5 tops.

Conclusion

Competitions are hard and nothing prepares you better than comps themselves. I have a lot of work to prepare mentally for the upcoming competitions.

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